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Buttoning the suit
Double-breasted suits are
always kept buttoned. When there is more than one to-button (as in a
traditional six-on-two arrangement), only the top one is to be fastened.
Often, this is the only one that can be properly fastened, because the
bottom to-button often lacks a corresponding interior flap button. In the
case of arrangement such as the six-on-one, particularly popular when the
double-breasted suit first staged a comeback in the 1980s, one has no
choice but to fasten the bottom button as this is the only option.
Single-breasted suits are buttoned while standing. When
the jacket is buttoned, all buttons except for the bottom button are
fastened. Under no circumstances should the bottom-most button of a
single-breasted suit jacket be fastened. This rule is adequate for
two-button suits and three-button suits, as well as the rarer four-button
suits. Three-buttons suits present a couple of special situations. In the
case of three-button suits with lapels that roll over the top button, the
top button should not be fastened. These are typically older three-button
jackets and contemporary three-button suits are not normally designed this
way. With a typical three-button suit made today, one has the option of
buttoning only the middle button in the manner of the old three-button
cuts, or following the rule of buttoning every button but the bottom-most
one. Both are acceptable. To prevent bunching, the single-breasted jacket
should be completely unbuttoned while the wearer is seated.
Ties with suits
Working with ties is very much a matter of
personal taste, but in conservative terms there are some basic
guidelines. Ties should be darker than the wearer's shirt. The background
color of the tie should not be the same as that of the shirt, rather the
foreground of the tie should contain the color of the shirt and thereby
"pick up" on the color of the shirt. Ideally, the tie should also
integrate the color of the suit in the same way. Generally, simple or
subdued patterns are preferred for conservative dress, though these are
terms with a wide range of potential for interpretation. The list of knots
generally includes the Four-in-hand, the Half-Windsor (or Windsor), the
Full-Windsor (or Double Windsor), and the Shelby or Pratt. A
Four-in-hand, Half-Windsor, or Full- Windsor is generally the most
appropriate with a suit, particularly by contemporary guidelines. Once
properly knotted and arranged, the bottom of the tie should just touch or
just go over the top of the belt buckle. The thin end should never extend
below the wide end.Shirts with suits
The type of shirt worn with a suit is a top made of woven cloth, with
long sleeves, a full-length buttoned opening down the front, and a collar;
this type of garment is known in American English as a dress shirt but
simply as a shirt in many other dialects of English.
The classic conservative shirt colors are light blue or white, with
white edging out as most conservative. The most formal type of dress shirt
worn with a standard suit is a shirt with French cuffs, which use cuff
links (silk knots can also be used) to close, but this type of shirt is
optional, and essentially up to the preferences of the wearer and the
vagaries of fashion. Ideally, this shirt should also have what is known as
a spread collar. This is frequently the default collar type for French cuff
shirts, though they can sometimes be found with point collars. Normally
button-down collars are reserved for use with a sport coat or without a coat
at all. The button-down collar is not seeing as much wear today,
particularly with the resurgence of more formal shirts with spread collars
and French cuffs, even in business casual wear. In terms of wear, the shirt
should be properly pressed and have collar stays in place if the shirt
allows.
Short-sleeve shirts, tennis shirts, and t-shirts should never be worn
with a suit when adherence to traditional etiquette is desired.
Socks with suits
Socks should match the pant leg. This makes the leg appear longer and
minimizes the noticebility of a too-short pant leg. In the absence of an
exact shade match between pants and socks (just the variability of how dye
appears on wool and cotton, viscose, silk, et al makes this a practical
impossibility), the shade of the socks should always run darker than that
of the pants. With patterned socks, ideally the background color of the
sock should match the primary/background color of the suit. If it is not
possible to match the pant leg, socks may match one's shoes. This is not
especially appropriate, particularly in contemporary conservative dress,
and should only be done if nothing remotely similar to the pant color can
be found. This is only likely to occur in the case of unusual,
fashion-forward colors, and there should not be any cause to do this with
traditional colors such as navy or gray, barring emergency.
Accessories with suits
Acceptable colors for belt and shoes are black and burgundy/cordovan,
though since the 1980s various shades of darker browns (particularly
mahogany) have started to gain acceptance. Light browns such as saddle tan
and its ilk should be reserved for use with business casual wear. The belt
and shoes must match one another, at the very least in color category if
not almost exactly in shade. The belt's buckle should be silver or gold.
Other metallic objects worn with the suit (such as cuff links, tie bar, tie
tack, watch) should match the belt buckle. Where watches are concerned: the
more formal the occasion, the thinner the watch. Analogue watches are more
formal than digital watches. In the most formal situations, a pocket watch,
or no watch at all, should be worn. Generally speaking, one should not wear
rubber sole dress shoes, though there are some individual high end shoes
that may be exceptions. Leather sole shoes are not only traditional, but
more importantly they almost always have uppers that are of a far better
quality and have a much more "dressy" appearance. Some companies also make
dress shoes with wooden soles.
Handkerchiefs and pocket squares/silks in the upper welt (chest) pocket
are not especially common in today's conservative dress, and have never
been 'good form' in Britain, though like other accessories (e.g. tie bars),
they can certainly be added. Coordinating pocket squares is a matter of
taste, but a general safe rule of thumb would be to match the color of the
shirt or the background color of the tie. When in doubt, one can simply use
the traditional, white cotton or linen handkerchief. There are a number of
styles in which these may be folded, all at the wearer's discretion.
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